Production methods
Argyle
Inlay patterns with contrasting coloured diamond shapes.
Blended yarn
An expression used for yarns whose individual fibres are dyed individually before the spinning process.
Circular knitting
Today, stockings and pantyhose are knitted circularly, without seams; that is, on single cylinder automatic stocking knitting machines. Double cylinder machines produce plain and pearl goods. Yarn quality, gauge and an even development of the stitches are decisive for appearance, a perfect fit and the wearability of the finished product.
Computer patterns
Patterns with a basic colour and up to three sample colours produced on an electronically controlled single cylinder machine. The sample yarns are cut off from the inside and are therefore invisible from the outside.
Fabrication
Cutting and sewing of pantyhose from individual parts. The left and right components of the tights are sewn together with a gusset to form the complete pantyhose.
Fitting
Due to the different anatomical shapes of the leg (the ankle has much less girth than the thigh) the stitches are different in size in certain parts of the leg. A crease-free seat is possible where the yarn is elastic. The differences in the size of the stitches are not visible.
Gusset
The left and right legs of the pantyhose are sewn together with a gusset. Its shape determines the durability and wearing comfort of the garment.
- Crutch gusset: ensures sufficient freedom of movement when it fits well.
- Dragon and Saddle gussets: offer sufficient seat width.
- Comfort and Figure gussets: an extended gusset up to the waistband for more room in the area of the seat, hips and waist
Heel
Fine or knitted stockings can have either reinforced or non-reinforced heels:
- Pendulum heel: knitted by adding and dropping a stitch (reinforced)
- Shaped heel: sealed by pressure and heat (non-reinforced), most suitable when worn with open shoes (sandals).
Knit weave resistance
Specially developed technique to improve durability (prevention of ladders).
Machine gauging
The definition of fineness of a hosiery or knitting machine is given by the number of needles to a unit of measurement (inches). The higher the machine gauging the higher the total number of needles and the finer the knitted fabrics. Example:
17 gauge = 17 needles per inch machine diameter, 17 X 3 3/4 inches X pi = 200 needles
- Bellinda stockings: machine gauge from 400 needles upwards for a specially fine weave structure
- Bellinda socks gauge between 88 and 200 needles
Melange
Description of yarns which achieve a different shade during the dyeing process.
Panty section
In the case of the pantyhose the actual trouser component is reinforced in different ways:
- The Panty design or the Page design offers a larger area on which to take hold when putting on the garment and gives a more secure and firm feeling when worn.
- The Bikini design is a more feminine and flattering variant, with adequate strengthening support to get hold of.
- The T-Band design embellishes an otherwise non-reinforced transparent trouser component; it is elegant but also very delicate.
Piece dyeing
The item is produced in natural white, then dyed. This is common, for example, with fleecy woollen socks, which become particularly puffed out and soft from the special dye bath, as do the satin sheer products.
Rosso-seam
The material is simply sewn together double. As a result a very small amount of seam can be seen. There are roll, round and flat seams, of which the latter wears the least. The pointed seam is the most common method of closing the toe: it is sewn from the inside, is not too tight and has a pleasantly soft elastic feel to it.
Texturing
The thread that leaves the spinneret is non-elastic and hard. For this reason it is treated by a thermal deformation technique called texturing.
All the mechanical changes made to the threads (twining, twisting, shoving, stamping) are achieved by means of the use of heat. If, for example, a flat thread is puffed out, the volume of the yarn is multiplied and it becomes more elastic (the telephone cable principle).
Toes
The toe of each stocking is closed with either a handlinked or a Rosso seam. The toe can be reinforced or non-reinforced (See Heel).
Tops
The finish to the top of the stocking:
- Ribbed top: simple top from plain and pearl stitches.
- Pique top: offset plain and pearl stitches ensure elasticity and do not shrink.
- Turn-over top: the edge to be turned over is lengthened and turned over to the inside. This ensures a neat appearance.
Yarn dyeing
The item is produced from pre-dyed yarn.
